TANGALIYA SHAWL - Handwoven GI tag Woolen Shawl of Saurashtra

India is well-known for its textile production. Handlooms have carved out a distinct niche for themselves. Handweaving is an important component of the country's traditional heritage. Apart from being patronized by royalty, handlooms have also been woven for the general public. They've been key trading products. For ages, communities have specialized in unique techniques and designs, passing on their knowledge to the next generation.

A Tangaliya Shawl is a handwoven, GI protected shawl and textile made by the Dangasia community from Schedule Caste in Gujarat, India. The 700-year-old indigenous craft is native to the Surendranagar district, of Saurashtra-region of the State. The textile is usually used as a shawl and wraparound skirt by women of the Bharwad shepherd community.

The shawls are woven in pit looms at homes, and uses knotting a contrast color thread with the warp, which are woven into the textile to create the effect of raised dots, which have become the signature style of the textile. On 04/09/2009 it was registered under the GI Act 1999. Tangaliya Shawl is GI Tagged certified product of Gujarat.

Tangaliya Shawl History

Tangaliya, as the name implies, is derived from the term Tangalio, which means "lower body." Tangaliya was usually a ten-by-four-foot cloth worn around the waist. Due to loom limitations, the cloth was woven in a 20 by 2in size, then divided in half and stitched together to produce a 10 by 4 shawl.

Tangaliya comes from the roots of the cultural hand weaving methods that started a long time ago dating back to 700 years. According to legend, a Bharwad man married a weaver woman hundreds of years ago amid the rough landscape of Saurashtra, despite great opposition from both sides. Regardless, it was a union that would have a lasting impact on the rich tapestry of Indian craftsmanship. Dangasia was the name given to their offspring, and they were the ones who invented Tangaliya weaving.

Tangaliya Woolen Shawl is one of the 100 different products that can be manufactured using the Tangaliya craft. It's a 20-day handcrafted technique in which a weaver meticulously goes through each step with the same level of love and excitement. Because it is handwoven, it may have minor inconsistencies as a result of the human role in the process.

Which place is famous for Tangalia shawl?

In Gujarat's Surendranagar district, Tangaliya weaving, also known as Daana weaving, is practiced. This type of weaving necessitates not just a high level of talent but also a keen eye for detail. The Central government has granted GI (Geographical Indications) recognition to the Tangaliya shawl, which uses a unique weaving technique and was on the edge of extinction.

What is Tangaliya work?

Tangaliya is a time-consuming and labor-intensive process. Dana, or beading, is created by twisting contrast-colored threads onto a group of four to five Warp threads. The cloth is made with a plain weave. Although the geometric designs appear to be beautiful stitching, they are actually weaving. Weavers' fingers detect the exact number of warp threads required and twist excess weft around them. The result is a stunning geometric pattern, with small white dots illuminating dark, rich textiles. Daana weaving's motif language is primarily made up of components found in the community's environment. Peacock (mor), plant (jhaad), Naughara, and many others are examples.

Uniqueness of Tangaliya Shawls

Tangaliya shawls are made in Gujarat's Surendranagar area. A specific community, Dangasia, the shepherd community, was responsible for weaving in 26 settlements. The origins and history of this indigenous skill may be traced back 700 years in Gujarat's Saurashtra area. Due to a paucity of historical records, the exact specifics of the craft's genesis and evolution are unknown. The origins of it were discovered through interviews with the village's elders. According to folklore, a Bharvad man married a weaver woman in the face of hostility from both groups.

The Dangasia, the progeny of this pair, later became known as the Dangasia and took up weaving as a profession. The magnificent craft of Tangaliya weaving arose from this new society. Tangaliya was created with yarns manufactured from sheep's wool. The Tangaliya product that evolved was crude, but the distinctive Dana work used to pattern the shawl is said to be performed nowhere else in the world. This unique product was produced by the Danas and has since become synonymous with the Tangaliya.

The Tangaliya product/weaving process is so unique that it is said to be practiced nowhere else on the planet. Tangaliya is distinguished by the beadwork, such as Danas, used to produce a patterned impression throughout the weaving process.

Danas are made by wrapping little strands of yarn around the warp yarns and tying them into tight knots. These beads, like Danas/knots, form motifs that are used to make designs. The Tangaliya's charm resides in the fact that one Dana can be used to create a variety of designs. In addition, groups of similar motifs can be used to construct more complicated patterns.

Conclusion

The craft's collective consuming nature has kept it out of the hands of many people. Tangaliya was always produced in the same traditional style, regardless of design or material. Under the SGSY project, the National Institute of Fashion Technology Gandhinagar collaborated with poor craftsmen in the areas of design, product development, skill training, infrastructure, and marketing. Tangaliya has been given the GI designation. However, constant intervention is still required for a long-term presence.

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